R1 Pit Stop - Ozone Kites

The R1 Pit Stop is an invaluable resource from Ozone. It is a vital tool-kit that enables you, as athletes, to keep both your kites and yourselves at peak performance for the race track. As such, it represents our on-going commitment to help you reach your ambitions.

The Reference to Formula 1 is No Accident.

Striving for excellence and ceaseless attention to detail are key elements that define the pinnacle of motorsport, qualities that are central to our core values.

Photo: Ozone R1 co-designer Rob Whittall racing at the Isle Of Man TT

Performance and Racing are Deep in Ozone’s DNA.

Our racing expertise encompasses a broad span: hang-gliding, paragliding, motorcycling, cycling, kite buggy racing and snow-kiting. Within our strong design team, we boast World and European champions.

The R1 V4

That wealth of experience and hard-won knowledge derived from competing and winning at the highest levels enabled us to create the category-leading R1 V4.

It is one of the fastest kites on the market. Paired with its unmatched accessibility, it is very effective in all areas of the race course. But as with any high-performance equipment built to win, the R1 V4 must be well-maintained to maximise its durability and extend its peak performance as long as possible. On the following pages you will find crucial tips and tricks to keep your R1 V4 kites at the top of their game for as many training sessions and races as possible.

Looking After Your Kite…

The testing combination of wind, sun, sand and salt are among the harshest challenges a high-performance wing can face.

By contrast, of course, that is often the very environment that is ideal for kiting. Kites used only on fresh-water lakes, and launched and landed on grassy areas, show little wear compared to those flown on the sea. But wherever the kite is flown, the more it is cared for, the longer it will last and perform at its best.

Download R1 Care pdf

Canopy Material Wear

The kite’s upper and lower surfaces suffer most, as they are exposed to the elements.

The upper surface in particular endures abrasion from sand on the beach. Moving a kite on the beach is essentially like rubbing the surface with sandpaper. Lightweight sail material does not respond well to that kind of treatment.

To improve durability without compromising performance unduly, the R1 V4 uses a heavier and more robust material on the upper surface.

We opted for the lightest material available for the underside as it is rarely in contact with the sand. This combination of the two strikes the best balance between lightness and longevity.

As your kite ages, the canopy will inevitably lose crispness. It will get softer and may feel like a handkerchief between your fingers. Porosity will increase, and it will have more stretch as the coating wears off. The kite will have less response, power and overall performance compared to a new, well-treated kite.

Bridle Lines Out Of Spec

Due to the heavy load racers put through kites, some bridle lines are prone to stretching more than others.

As a starting point, we have a side view of a kite profile section. From it is suspended three rows of bridle lines, plus brake lines, just as we currently have on the R1 V4.

The A lines are attached near the Leading Edge (LE) of the kite

The B lines are behind the A lines going towards the Trailing Edge (TE)

The C lines are behind the B lines

The K lines (brakes) are attached closest to the TE

Generally, most load goes through the A bridles. The most loaded area there, is the centre, suspended by AR1.
The load decreases as we go out towards the tips and towards the Trailing Edge.

This Graphic Below Shows the Ordering of the Bridle Lines in a 2D View.

As you can see in the 2D view, AR1 is splitting into AM1 and AM2, which again split into A1, A2, A3 and A4. Those few lines have to sustain the highest loaded (or working) area of the kite. The further we go towards the tips or the trailing edge, the less lift the wing creates and the less load there is on the bridle lines.

To Check the Bridle Line Trim

Level the lower end of all bridle lines (the point where they attach to the Speedsystem) using a ground stake, screwdriver or having a person holding all points at the same level.

Symmetry Check

Get someone to hold all A bridle lines (left and right) on the lower end at the same level. Check bridle attachment points; for example, A1 left and right on the canopy have the same distance from the lower end. Repeat for A2, A3, A4. Perform same test for B and C level.

Level Check

have someone hold all bridle lines of one side at their lower end. The lines of A, B, C should have the same length up to where they split to the very upper lines that attach to the canopy.

How to to shorten a bridle line using the double loop technique:

In particular, AR1 is prone to stretching as it is the most loaded line. It can be shortened by using a larks head, or double, triple loop, on to the Speedsystem line as shown:

1: Lay out the speedsystem as you would for set up

2: Disconnect the front (#2 or #3) pigtail

3: Remove PA1 from PA2 and PB2

4: Remove PA2 from bridle lines AR1, AR2, AR3

5: Put the bridle lines that are not effected back onto PA2 (AR2, AR3 in sample)

6: Put effected bridle line onto PA2 using a double loop as shown. This will shorten the line length by around 1cm to 1.5cm depending on the line thickness. If the effected line needs shortening even more add another loop. If the line is off spec more than you can compensate with the double loop we recommend to replace or re-splice to the spec length

7: Tighten the double loop onto PA2 and measure length of effected line to check if modification brought it back to spec length

8: Close the loop to loop connection on upper end of PA2 by looping lower end of PA2 through its upper loop (reverse way from opening)

9: Connect PA2 and PB2 with PA1

10: Connect PA1 with PB2 with front pigtail

11: Repeat for other side or any other effected line.9

Download pdf here

Bridle Line Lengths and Rigging Diagrams

View pdf for more detailed information

Speedsystem Trim

The Speedsystem allows us to change the Angle of Attack (AoA) of a kite in flight. It sits between the bridle and flying lines. It is permanently connected to the kite’s bridles and is controlled by the back flying lines running from the bar ends to the kite. It allows us to rotate B, C and K lines around our fixed bridle line point A and therefore change not only the AoA, but also the camber of the kite.

Here is a side view of a profile section set at a low AoA when the bar is pushed away from the rider.

This view shows a profile section with a high AoA when the bar is pulled in towards the rider.

With the Speedsystem we are moving B, C, K with a ratio of B 1:4, C 1:2, K 1:1 compared to the travel/throw on the bar.

This way the profile also gets more camber as the AoA increases, which creates more lift at a lower speed. That helps when going deep on downwind angles, adding lift for the manoeuvres and giving a very responsive feel on the bar.

The Speedsystem is set to an overall length of 992mm from where it attaches to the bridle line down to the flying line connectors (pigtails).

R1 V4 Pro-Tune Speed System

Make sure you keep the trim of the Speedsystem as per spec. You can use the splice trim system on the upper end of the Speedsystem to adjust it.

Speedsystem level: check A, B, C are set to the correct length of 992mm.

EXAMPLE 1:
If measurement point A is 20mm longer than the factory standard spec of 992mm, move the knot under the heat shrink down 40mm and adjust the A bridles connection to the loop of PA2.

EXAMPLE 2:
If measurement point B is 10mm shorter than the factory standard spec of 992mm, move the knot under the heat shrink up 20mm and adjust the B bridles connection to the loop of PB3.

EXAMPLE 3:
If measurement point C is 10mm shorter than the factory standard spec of 992mm, move the knot under the heat shrink up 20mm and adjust the C bridles connection to the loop of PC1. Then move the knot in KR1 EXT up by 10mm.

EXAMPLE 4:
If measurement point C is 20mm longer than the factory standard spec of 992mm, move the knot under the heat shrink down 40mm and adjust the C bridles connection to the loop of PC1. Then move the knot in KR1 EXT down by 20mm.

Some riders prefer to have C shorter than A and B by 10-15mm without changing the KR1 EXT knot. The Speedsystem will approximately stretch out to that setting after the first ride.

Speedsystem pulley lines PB1, PB2 shrink as they are running through the pulleys

Speedsystem pulley lines (sheathed grey thick lines) need to be checked regularly.

Pro-Tune Speed System Pulley Line Replacement

Step-by-step instructions. Refer to the R1 V4 Pro-Tune Speed System Diagram and Photos.

1. Disconnect the flying lines and lay the Speed System out in an open area.

2. Disconnect the front (#2 or #3) and back (#1 or #4) pigtails.

3. Remove PB1 from the lower pulley.

4. Disconnect PA1 from PA2 and PB2.

5. Remove PB2 from the upper pulley.

6. Disconnect PB2 and PC1 from the pulley – loosen the loop-to-loop connection and feed the pulley through the end loops of PB2 and PC1.

7. Take the replacement PB2 and PC1 and re-connect with the pulley. The pulley goes through the end loops of PB2 and PC1 i.e. reverse the previous steps.

8. Feed the replacement PB2 line through the upper pulley.

9. Connect replacement PB2 and PA2 with PA1.

10. Take the PB1 replacement line and feed it through the lower pulley.

11. Connect PB1 and PA1 to the front line pigtail (#2 or #3).

12. Connect the other end of PB1 and KR1 EXT to the back pigtail (#1 or #4).

13. Repeat the same process for the other speed system side. Always check your speed system and replace lines when excessive wear shows.

Care and Maintenance in General

Having your equipment maintained, cleaned and set up to the best possible state will give you trust and confidence to focus fully on the race. Regularly check, trim and replace your equipment and have it in a race-worthy state when going to events.

Now that we have shown how to maintain, care for and put the kite back to its factory trim, you can be reassured it will perform like the first day. To maximise your performance further, here are some more aspects to consider.

How to be a Performance Athlete

You, as the athlete, are the critical link between the power generated by the wind in your kite and the wing under the water that allows you to fly.

You need to become the best version of yourself to succeed. That requires deep reserves of physical and mental resilience, paired with steely discipline.

Physical:

Your body must be a high-performance machine in peak condition for racing. Ensure it meets the required specs: strength, endurance and power. You must have enough energy on tap at any given moment. To be tired after two races and have to drag yourself through the day’s other three races is falling short. A soccer player who can last a game of 90 minutes, but breaks down when it goes to extra time will struggle. Learn to deal with pain if you know where it comes from. Your legs might feel tired, but there are more reserves of power than you realise. Learn to enjoy the pain and keep pushing.

Educate Yourself:

Or get help, on how to become fitter. Refine your diet to make sure you are getting sufficient nutrition. After racing, or training, be kind to your body. Massages, stretching, re-hydration and good food are essential. Give your body time to recover. Get good sleep, avoid alcohol, nicotine and other drugs. There are times for those things. But they should be limited and controlled as much as you can. Certainly not before, or during, a competition.

Mental:

An athlete’s mental strength is just as important as physical strength. Train your mind as well as your body. Problems that might bug or bother you—work on them. Seek professional help if necessary. Don’t be shy about it—we are all a little crazy, one way or the other.

In the end, you should be focused, but relaxed. Enjoy what you are doing, and remember nobody is forcing you. You are privileged to do what you love. It is all about having fun.

Drag

An Unwanted Necessity

Drag is created everywhere on moving obstacles. It can be beneficial.

On an aerofoil, it creates lift in the air as well as underwater. Equally, you want to cut non-beneficial parasitic drag to a minimum. The bridle and flying lines, bars, boards, mast, fuselage, stabiliser and riders themselves are all “dragging” through the air. But they are not creating lift and therefore are not beneficial. They are, nonetheless, necessary to control the ride.

Drag increases by the velocity squared—this means if you are trying to be twice as fast, your drag coefficient is four times higher. A good example is a bicycle: if you ride at 15kph, it is relatively easy. Drag comes from rolling resistance of your tyres, chain, bearings, pedals—basically all the moving parts. Aerodynamic drag is relatively low when moving slowly. To ride at 30kph, you will get a good sweat on. Your rolling resistance and the other parts are still creating the same drag, but your aerodynamic drag is four times higher than at 15kph.

Kitefoil racers are riding at speeds where aerodynamic drag is significant. So, it is essential to reduce parasitic drag to a minimum. Flying lines should be strong enough to withstand heavy loads, but not over-sized in diameter. Ozone’s race lines have 300kg breaking strength at a 0.9mm diameter for the front lines. You can also get lines with the same breaking strength, but twice the diameter. Again, that adds parasitic drag—lowering your performance.

Make yourself as aerodynamically clean as possible. Clothing, hair, anything flapping in the wind will create additional drag. Open face helmets with air vents, clutter on the harness, big flapping bibs—all slow you down.

A good example can be seen in the road cycling industry over recent years. Bike manufacturers moved all cables for brakes and gears into the handlebars and frames to become more aerodynamic. The frames, forks, rims are all designed to have low aerodynamic drag. Jerseys became very tight with no flutter. Helmets are designed to be low drag.

Aerodynamic Drag

Performance comes not only from the wings that create lift underwater and in the air, but it also comes from what you are dragging through the air. The less, the better.

Here is an excellent example of how much you can gain by reducing aerodynamic drag. Pay attention to how much the other riders are still pedalling even on the downhill.